From Measurements to Mockups
Now that we finally had our sketches, it was time to start drafting patterns and creating sample versions (or “mockups”) of the garments. The first step was to take an extensive set of Margaret’s measurements and use them to create a uniquely customized dress form. The photo above shows a few different forms in the […]
Retrospective: Melissa’s Silk Chiffon Maternity Wedding Dress
As you may remember from my first “retrospective blog post” last week, the first real wedding dress that I ever made was for my (now) husband Charles’s sister Katie. Well, Charles has more than one sister! Not long after Katie’s wedding, his sister Melissa announced her engagement. I had such a great experience working with […]
The Lila Rose “Bustle” Challenge
Lila Rose’s mockup was almost ready, with the main exception being the “bustle”. As you may remember, we changed the sketch several times before deciding on the design above. Lila Rose definitely wanted a bustle type structure on the back of her skirt. It would be hidden under a removable train for the ceremony, and […]
Pattern drafting for Lila Rose’s mockup dress
Now that I have my moulage and my custom dressform created using Lila Rose’s unique set of over 30 measurements, it is now time to start drafting her pattern. Pattern drafting is one of my very favorite parts of the bespoke process! Since this dress is a sleek design, my first draft was to create […]
Creating a Body Double
Have I mentioned that I love pattern drafting? The first thing that a patternmaker needs to do after taking a full set of measurements is to use them to create a body double. There are two ways to pattern: draping and flat pattern. In draping, you are physically manipulating fabrics in three dimensions on a […]
And the winning design is…
Finally, THIS is the pencil sketch that will become Lila Rose’s custom wedding dress! This design features a removable train, a pencil mini-skirt, a “bustle”, 3/4 skinny sleeves with fancy sleeve heads, a V-neck with a pleated stand-up collar, an invisible zipper front closure, brightly colored fabrics and a few “wild” details. There will still […]
For good measure…
Accurate measurements are imperative to achieving the perfect fit. And I am not just talking about the standard bust-waist-hips measurement. I take a detailed set of around 40 measurements. These measurements give me a mathematical map of the woman’s body and (along with a few snapshots) the ability to recreate her exact curves onto a […]